Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside. Your lungs will love you and your Insurance Company
Extra large, waist high loading door.
No more bending over, straining your back
to load wood! Lever action latch for easy closing and safety!
A PROVEN design - since 1972!
We feel we build the safest furnace
(nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very
Friendly Staff to help you every step
of the way.
ALL furnaces now come with a
double flood light on the front for ease of loading the wood.
Not only that, it's a MOTION
No switches. No forgetting to
turn it off.
If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!
18" x 18" - The TOUGHEST
door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated
by a 3" air shield. This plate keeps the hot air in and
deflects it off the door. With very little metal to transfer
heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the
Very heavy duty hinges! OURS won't fall
Click on Pictures for a Larger image
grate is made out of 3/4" inch
bar stock. Now THAT's thick! We have NEVER had
one burn through!
Thick Steel Firebox - ALMOST 4/10 OF AN INCH.
WILL NOT burn through - EVER!
Compare Firebox thickness
to another popular furnace (eBay won't allow us to say their
name) at only .200"
Ours is almost .400" !
Some other makes
don't even have an ash pan!! It makes it HARD to clean out! You
have to let the fire die down or move the burning wood aside
to scoop out hot ashes.
Only one seam in
tube so it doesn't
weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a
solid piece of tubular steel !
It will not
RUST through in a lifetime! Will not split and crack like
We have furnaces 30 years old and
more, still in use today!
Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox
only minutes after reloading with wood!
Firebox size is 34" wide x 27"
high (due to grate in bottom) x 34" deep.
It is totally
surrounded with 170 gallons of water, absorbing the maximum amount
of heat possible!
The chimney is also surrounded
by water, capturing heat that would otherwise be lost!
The ash pan (and hot coals)
with water too!
CLICK ON PICTURE for a LARGER image
US Made pump, fan and thermostat
have a one year
STANDARD with TRIPLE
heating a Home AND a shop / garage / apartment AND potable Hot
Water Coil (50
foot 5/8" OD Copper) carries hot water, heated by the water reservoir directly
to your hot water heater. We
show you how! No
separate heat exchanger is needed!! This saves you $200.00
runs on demand NOT 24 hours a day like others!
this is potable (drinkable) water.
R11 vinyl backed fiberglass! That's typical of a house wall.
INSULATED (R21) ON TOP. You cannot feel the heat when you touch
are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to
pan (non-removable) is 16" wide x 34" long and
is 8" deep. It is
easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small
other makers don't even have an ash pan! You have to shove the
hot burning wood aside (or let it die) to clean it out!!
Water surrounds the ash pan as well, extracting all the
the red hot coals.
chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the
bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is
trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That
would be a big loss of efficiency.
This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles getting a
creosote buildup on them.
creates a 2nd burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and
wood! When wood starts to burn it's the gas that burns first!
advantage is that the chimney exits through the water, further
heating it up - for free!
Nothing does better!
manufacturers only use 100-125 gallon tanks! The size is critical
when heating a larger home.
DON'T BELIEVE it when they say
they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU. That's
impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees!
We can heat a house with a water temperature of
just 130 degrees as opposed to 160-180 degrees in a competitor's with
a smaller tank. Larger tanks also allow faster recovery and
heating plus a reserve.
tank is made from 1/8 thick
metal (11 gauge) - 2 times thicker than many others using
only 16 gauge.
< There is an air handler/blower
that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen
to the fire. It is thermostatically controlled to keep the water
at a set temperature that you can adjust. This takes place of a
manual draft opening.
furnace is so strong and well-made, that the
chimney alone is strong enough to carry the 1600 lb. weight of the
made of Heavy Duty Siding - 26 gauge Galvalume which has a 25 year limited
The chimney is made out of
1/4" wall, schedule 40 pipe and is surrounded by water. It tops out at about 6 feet above ground. You can EASILY add an
12 colors to best
suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.
Click on Picture
for a larger image
Large rear access door. All electrical items are in back, safely
behind a door!
and electrical hookups.
easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!
ALL furnaces come with 2 hookups and 1 pump.
Extra pumps are $99
Click on Picture
for a larger image
This is a great aid in getting
a fire started, recovers the water temperature much quicker, and
burns the wood up more completely.
Ash pan door and air blower inlet
(seen in back)
The air blower determines how hot the fire
burns and therefore how hot the water gets. A thermostat on the
back of the water jacket tells the blower when to turn on and
off, so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood.
This is a LOT more efficient than a manual damper!
The air blows into the bottom of the fire,
through the grate!
That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of
the fire, as all others do.
You get more complete
burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom
as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others
that have that big box on the door!
INSTALLATION KIT - Typical
For one heat exchanger - 50 ft.
You will need one in and one return line
per heat exchanger or hot water heater plus one run for the
||3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe
||50' 12/3 wire
||Installation kit includes all fittings,
adapters, shut-off valves, etc.
||PVC Pipe and Insulation for Pex pipe
||Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu)
||25' 12/2 wire
||110 V 20 Amp breaker
||Sheet metal (Rarely needed,
only if a heat
exchanger won't fit your plenum)
||4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat
exchanger to fit)
||If heating domestic hot water add $99
for a pump and 50' of Pex at .89 a foot - for a total of
4 Pex lines.
||Total: $632 - $929
Prices will vary depending on
supplier and locale
Items can be purchased
locally or supplied by your local plumber. The BEST PRICES are
right on eBay though!
Kits will vary
depending on the number of feet from your house. Other
variables include heating your hot water or adding a 2nd heat
exchanger for a separate building. This will require more pipe
and a separate pump and thermostat in most cases. Pumps are $140
each. Heat exchangers are about the $195 for 165,000 BTU (varies
with size, many are less) and there are many being sold here on eBay!
The average cost for
installation (labor) based on average specs is $437.17
If you do some work yourself, it
would be a lot less. Many places allow you to be your own
This will vary depending on
your local rate and location.
Don't forget a concrete
pad, approx 4" thick.
It will take only ½ yard
for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place
to stand and load wood.
Shove the logs in on top of each other.
Use the poker for safety to push them in.
pile of ashes may make the door seem low - but it isn't!)
Start with a small piece of wood.
can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever
you can easily handle. The bigger
ones require less cutting and splitting so they cost less -
about 80-90 a cord in most areas..
ANY wood is
cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they
have never used their propane heater after propane prices
Thought there wasn't a fire?
Within a couple of minutes -
this fire was roaring!
News! We can finally say that
our furnace CAN burn coal, for sure.
have had a customer (Pete) burning coal in his furnace this
puts 8-10 shovels in, about to the bottom of the door, heaping
in the middle. This little bit will last him 12-16 hours
that one of the advantages of coal are that it heats up
faster. He can come home late to a dead fire and the water
cooled off (he's a truck driver) and can have heat in 20
coal also lasts longer than wood. Pete
often mixes wood, putting it on top of the coal and it works
VERY well, he said.
is heating a 3300 sq. ft house and a 1000 sq ft garage with 12
foot ceilings - so an equivalent of 1500 sq. ft plus
3300 plus his hot water. 4800 sq. ft total.
garage stays at 70 degrees even when it's below 0 outside!
top it all off, his furnace is 325 feet from his house!! He's
a happy camper...
Print this ad HERE
We can build YOUR furnace in
any of these exciting colors or any combination thereof!
CLICK ON PICTURES for a LARGER IMAGE
CLICK ON PICTURE for a LARGER IMAGE
We can also build your furnace
so that you can apply regular siding,
faux (cultered) stone or almost anything else.
We can also build them without
siding and light.
for a savings of $230,
for those who want to put them in an outbuilding
or put another siding on it.
about Stainless Steel answered
Do you build with stainless steel?
No, we don't build
stainless for several really good reasons.
Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY furnaces still
in use after 30 years plus!!
1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.
2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since
most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.
There are many grades of stainless out there.
3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made
really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon
barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see
so many split and broken apart.
Our firebox is almost .400 inches thick as opposed to .200 in
many furnaces. That's almost 1/2 inch!! They never rust through.
We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many
leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are
4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?
5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost
all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And
it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?
Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild
steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last
If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 34 years
The potential for
electrical shock is something we have tried to totally eliminate. That is why unlike our competitor's stoves,
our stoves do not have electrical control boxes, draft fans, etc., on the outside. We believe these impose too much risk should a problem ever
arise. We also believe that to have anything too complicated on a wood furnace is unnecessary. We have made our furnaces to be simple, and
reliable and we have proven that with 34 years of use.
We do not have complicated self-fill, or water level indicators on our furnaces. They are simply
things to wear out or malfunction requiring costly service and repairs. We install a simple manual valve which you turn on until water runs out the overflow, and
flip back off.
SIMPLE! (This takes about 10 seconds.)
These stoves were developed by us, for our own use. We started making them for others slowly and now our stoves are well known locally for their simplicity, and their
Shaver has sold several thousand in their county alone! We are sure that if you purchase one of our stoves you will be completely satisfied with our stove throughout its long service life which you will enjoy.
Hot Water Wood Furnaces are indeed the very best heating choice.
We are positive that a few years down the road when others are making costly repairs to the overly complex system they purchased from our competitors, you will be quite comfortable and enjoying your new cost effective Shaver's Hot Water Wood Furnace.